25 stops, 7-day Vancouver Island Road trip. Full Itinerary of Vancouver Island's lesser-known spots
This 7-day Vancouver Island road trip runs south to north from Sooke to North Island. 1,700 km across back roads, logging routes, and 25 stops, including Telegraph Cove, Alert Bay, Tahsis, and Upana Caves.
Spring is an ideal time for a 7-day road trip with my dad, who came from Alberta to explore Vancouver Island’s back roads. The crowds were nonexistent, and accommodations in the northern areas were just beginning to open for the season.
7-Day South to North Vancouver Island Road Trip at a Glance
| Regions: South Island, Cowichan Valley, Central Island, North Central and North Island. Distance: 1,700 km, including logging and back road sections Duration: 7 Days Terrain: Paved highways, winding coastal roads, and active logging roads (weekends only for some sections) Distance: 1,700 km, including logging and back road sections Best time: Spring and summer |  |
This post is for those who love driving and making numerous stops in a short period. Starting in Sooke, we journeyed up Vancouver Island to explore the back roads of North Central Island and North Island. We navigated logging roads and discovered charming small towns and back roads that often go unnoticed.
My Dad (Marvin) and I have travelled together a few times, and we both enjoy discovering what’s around the corner. At 74 years old, he hasn’t slowed down. Marvin was game for it all, embracing every adventure along the way.
7-Day South to North Vancouver Island Road Trip Route
Day 1 – Sooke to Port Renfrew
We began our trip with a leisurely drive from my home in Sooke up to Port Renfrew, kicking off the day with a visit to the famous Shirley Delicious Restaurant. After breakfast, our first stop at the Sheringham Lighthouse offered stunning views, setting the tone for our adventure, with a plan to spend the afternoon exploring Botanical Beach. If you’re starting from Victoria, be sure to factor in an additional hour to your day.
The road to Port Renfrew is paved but narrow and winding in places. As you approach Port Renfrew, you’ll encounter several narrow one-way bridges and a few kilometres of driving where the pavement is rough and uneven.
Sheringham Point Lighthouse
Sheringham Point Lighthouse, Shirley
Every time I visit Sheringham Lighthouse, there is a new addition added to the area for a better experience.
Located in Shirley, the lighthouse offers a quintessential Canadian coastal experience. Visitors can expect breathtaking ocean views, easy access from the highway, and well-kept trails leading down to the lighthouse.
The Sheringham Point Lighthouse Preservation Society maintains the site, which features informative plaques, donation options, and a small parking lot at the end of Sheringham Point Road. It’s perfect for nature enthusiasts, history buffs, and travellers of all kinds! The gates open from 9 a.m. to dusk daily. Admission is free, but a donation of $5 per person helps maintain and enhance the site.
The walk back up can be challenging for those with health conditions, but the views and overall experience are breathtaking.
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on this West Coast lighthouse
Sandcut Beach
Sandcut Beach has always been a favourite of mine, although this visit was unplanned. Located just before Jordan River, it provided the perfect spot to spend an extra hour while waiting for low tide at our next stop, Botanical Beach.
The round trip to the Sandcut Beach waterfall takes about an hour and covers two kilometres. The hike begins with a magical journey through a dense rainforest featuring a mix of old and second-growth trees. As you continue, you’ll encounter a small creek and boardwalk. Be prepared for stairs and some steeper sections along the way.
As the trees open up, revealing the beach, head left along the pebble shoreline until you reach the waterfall. If you’re feeling adventurous, there is a trail to the left of the falls that will take you to the top.
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what to expect when visiting Sandcut Beach Waterfall
Botanical Beach
Botanical Beach is a must-stop for anyone visiting Port Renfrew. It has the best tide pools on Vancouver Island, along with a rugged west coast shoreline and even a taste of the famous coastal Vancouver Island trails.
The trail loop is just 3 kilometres, but expect to walk over 5 kilometres to fully explore the beach, and it’s not an easy trek. The rugged, uneven rock and the trail connecting Botanical Beach and Botany Bay offer a taste of the mud and roots found on some of the famous West Coast trails.
Tips
- Watch the tide information, you’ll want to visit when the tides are lower to have the chance to view the tide pools.
- Start by heading down the trail to Botanical Beach. After exploring, you can decide whether to finish the loop based on your energy levels.
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Explore Botanical Beach – more maps, tips and tricks
Night Port Renfrew – Hikers Hut
Night Port Renfrew – Hikers Hut
For our first night in Port Renfrew, we opted for the hiker huts, which proved to be both easy and affordable. These huts are ideal if you’re simply looking for a comfortable bed to rest on. We found them to be impeccably clean and cozy, and their proximity to local restaurants was a fantastic bonus.
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Day 2 – Port Renfrew to Telegraph Cove
On day two, our mission was to drive from South Island to North Island, making a few stops along the way.
The first 140 km of our trip is the north section of the Pacific Marine Circle Route up to Cowichan Lake to Duncan. The entire route was paved, with some rough spots on the narrow and windy stretch from Port Renfrew to Cowichan Lake. However, after Cowichan Lake, the highways improved significantly, offering smooth and pleasant driving all the way to Telegraph Cove.
Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree
Ten minutes after leaving Port Renfrew, we made our first stop of the day, the Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree is located just along the side of the road. We quickly pulled over on the gravel shoulder as we reached Fairy Lake to view what might be Vancouver Island’s most photographed tree.
A short distance from the shore, a single log juts out of the water at an angle. Remarkably, despite the lack of protection and being surrounded by water, this small tree has managed to survive and grow.
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Location and more photos of the Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree
Harris Creek Spruce Tree
Halfway between Port Renfrew and Cowichan Lake, there’s a turn-off marked by a single sign that’s easy to miss, so you might want to mark it on your map.
A small parking lot and a very short trail lead you to the giant Harris Creek Sitka Spruce Tree. This huge tree, located along the Harris River, is worth the stop.
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location and photos of the Harris Creek Sitka Spruce Tree
S’amunu | Somenos Marsh Conservation Area
S’ammunu | Somenos Conservation Area
This was an unplanned stop. We had set out early to start the day and needed to fill some time before the Hand of Man Museum opened. It turned out to be a relaxing and enjoyable stop.
Located in Duncan along the Trans Canada Highway, the Somenos Wildlife Management Area has boardwalks that take you through a marsh filled with young trees, birds and wetlands. The one-kilometre relaxing walk around the Somenos Conservation area is an easy way to spend 30 minutes.
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Location and more info about Somenos Marsh Conservation Area
Hand of Man Museum
Hand of Man Museum
The Hand of Man Museum is a fascinating private collection featuring an incredible array of artifacts from cultures around the world. Housed in a charming old school building, the museum showcases everything from exquisite art pieces to dinosaur skeletons, as well as a diverse range of animals on display from across the globe.
This eclectic mix creates a truly unique experience far from your typical museum visit. The museum’s intimate, personal touch, coupled with its extensive and varied exhibits, makes it a must-see destination for anyone with a curious mind and a love of history and natural wonders.
Qualicum Beach
We made a quick lunch stop in the quaint town of Qualicum Beach. This charming and quiet town left such an impression that I plan to return with my family to explore more thoroughly.
A fun fact about Qualicum Beach is that you won’t find any chain stores or restaurants here—they’re not allowed, which adds to the town’s unique and local charm.
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Explore Qualicum Beach – more maps, tips and tricks.
Telegraph Cove
Night Two, Telegraph Cove
After a long drive and some great stops, we made it to Telegraph Cove.
This is the perfect spot to use as a base to explore northern Vancouver Island for the next three days. This unique experience has history and experiences. A restaurant, whale museum, whale watching tours, kayak tours, cafe, and it’s just fun to walk up and down the historic boardwalk.
Explore Telegraph Cove – more maps, tips and tricks.
Day 3 – Telegraph Cove, Alert Bay Ferry and Whale Museum
Day 3 was more relaxed, with fewer miles and only a couple of hours in the car. We began our morning at the Whale Interpretive Centre in Telegraph Cove before heading to Port McNeill for breakfast. Afterward, we took the ferry to Alert Bay, where we spent the afternoon having lunch and exploring the history of the small island.
Whale Interpretive Centre
Whale Interpretive Centre
Note: This tour was in May 2024. Unfortunately, the Whale Interpretive Centre and a portion of Telegraph Cove burned down in a tragic fire on December 31st, 2024. They are now in the process of rebuilding.
Our first stop of the day was conveniently close—we simply walked down to the end of the boardwalk from our room to the Whale Interpretive Centre. Whales have played a significant role in the history of Vancouver Island, from the extensive whaling history up to the 1960s to the thriving tourism industry today. The museum features giant whale skeletons and offers a wealth of information about the various whale species that visit the area annually.
Alert Bay
Alert Bay
A 45-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill brings you to the vibrant community of Alert Bay on Cormorant Island, rich in history and culture. Upon arrival, you’ll first notice the remnants of a once-thriving fishing village.
As you explore the island and visit its landmarks, the artistry and ancient history come alive through numerous new carvings and historic totems at the original burial grounds. Alert Bay offers a rare insight into West Coast First Nations traditions and history, making it a truly unique and enriching destination.
Highlights you don’t want to miss:
- U’mista Cultural Centre
- Namgis Big House & Worlds largest totem pole
- ‘Namgis Original Burial Grounds
Back to Telegraph Cove
Dinner on the boardwalk and off to bed to prep for another day of exploring Northern Vancouver Island.
Day 4 – Coal Harbour, Port Alice Loop and Logging Roads
Our day began with breakfast in Port McNeill, a day filled with history and scenic logging roads. We explored a World War II crash site and discovered a hidden museum in Coal Harbour. We then cut across, using logging roads as we made our way to Port Alice.
Note: This logging road is only accessible during evenings and weekends when logging trucks are inactive.
We then proceeded to the Port Alice Loop, navigating more logging roads with varying conditions. This route is not suitable for small cars or RVs.
Dakota Memorial Hike
This challenging 4.5 km hike took us just under two hours. It led us along rooted trails with some rope sections to assist us in steeper spots. The destination is a historic WWII airplane crash site, where a monument honours the lives of the pilots who perished.
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Maps, photos and more information on the Dakota Crash Site
Hidden Museum Coal Harbour
As you drive up, a single sign points you towards the museum, but from there, it’s a bit of a guessing game, as the building itself lacks signage, making it a hidden gem.
This site is rich in history, from its World War II heritage to its days as a bustling whaling station. Inside the large WWII hangar, you’ll discover a unique private collection that has been growing since the 1970s, featuring everything from cars to chainsaws.
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what to expect when visiting Coal Harbour Museum
Alice Lake Loop
Up until now, our trip had been all pavement, so we decided it was time to explore the logging roads and make our way from Coal Harbour to Port Alice.
The road we chose allows public access only on weekends and evenings. We made it to Port Alice and drove through town to an unnamed waterfall before continuing the loop, stopping at the Eternal Fountain and the Devil’s Bath Cenote.
The logging roads past Port Alice had no gates and allowed public access, but they were a mixed bag. Our speed ranged from 25 km to 55 km, making for a long day in the car.
Unnamed Waterfall
From my research, this waterfall doesn’t have a name and may be a local hidden gem. Just south of Port Alice, take Marine Drive past the Port Alice Golf & Country Club and through a commercial zone. You’ll find the waterfall on your left. For the adventurous, there’s a challenging climb that offers a view of the top half of the two-stage falls.
Eternal Fountain
A short detour off the Lake Alice Loop road leads to the Eternal Fountain Recreation Site. Here, a small parking lot serves as the trailhead for a brief hike to the fountain. A boardwalk takes you over the waterfall, which mysteriously emerges from nowhere and disappears into the ground. The trail continues into the forest, revealing sinkholes and small caves along the way.
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on the Eternal Fountain
Devil’s Bath Recreation Site.
Devil’s Bath Recreation Site
Located along the main road, the Devil’s Bath Recreation Site features a viewing platform overlooking one of Canada’s largest cenotes (flooded sinkholes). The parking lot includes a picnic table, a map, and a challenging trail for those eager to explore.
Back to Telegraph Cove
Dinner on the boardwalk and off to bed to prep for another day of exploring Northern Vancouver Island
Day 5 – Telegraph Cove to Tahsis
On the only rainy day of our trip, we planned to head to Tahsis and return to Gold River. However, due to two days of logging roads and continuous rain, we made just one stop to do the highly recommended hike at Antler Lake and continued onto Tahsis.
Antler Lake Loop
Antler Lake, Gold River
The Antler Lake Loop Hike offers a bit of everything. This 5 km, 2-hour hike takes you around the lake through mature and old-growth forests. Along the way, you’ll encounter giant Douglas firs, red cedars, creek crossings, and lake views.
The trail is well-maintained and marked. In addition to the old growth, there are a few charming spots where you can find wood carvings, wind chimes, and unique rock formations.
Tahsis
Tahsis
We made it to Tahsis, and while I was initially concerned due to our lack of plans—especially since it was early in the season on a rainy day—our visit turned out to be delightful.
As we explored, we met some locals, found a room on the water, and enjoyed fresh prawns. Spending the night in this small, friendly town was a treat. However, be aware that this small community has limited options, particularly in the off-season, so make a better plan better than I did.
Day 6 – Tahsis to Qualicum Beach
With limited breakfast options on a Sunday morning in Tahsis, we settled for a couple of breakfast bars and set off towards Gold River. Rejuvenated by the sunshine, we hit the road with renewed energy.
A full day lay ahead, promising numerous waterfall sightings and the much-anticipated exploration of Upana Caves.
Leiner River Estuary Trail
Leiner River
Just outside of Tahsis, there’s a quick and easy boardwalk loop perfect for a morning walk. With two meadow viewpoints as it leads you to the mouth of the river, it’s an ideal spot for wildlife sightings. We were fortunate to watch a bear for 10 minutes, enjoying fresh morning dew grass.
Boulder Patch
Boulder Patch
This spot doesn’t have a designated parking area, so we parked next to the bridge. Just off the road, a small wooden sign says “Boulder Patch.” Though the ditch is a bit steep to access the trailhead, the trail is well marked as it winds through the trees, leading you around large boulders and along the river.
The river was high and flowing when we visited, but it transformed into a calm creek with clear green pools during the summer. This short hike was a bit more challenging than our first hike, but it was a fascinating area to explore.
Upana Caves
In my opinion, this was the highlight of the trip. Upana Caves can be as adventurous as you want to make it. The more you are willing to explore, the more you will find. We weren’t ready to slide around on our bellies but we still found openings that lead to some exciting discoveries.
There are multiple viewpoints and cave entrances, each offering a unique experience. If you are planning to go exploring, bring a flashlight and proper clothing. And watch your head—I came out with a couple of new bumps from not paying attention.
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Plan your trip to Upana Caves
Cala Creek Falls
Cala Creek Falls
Just a couple minutes from Upana Caves, these falls are a quick pullover with room to park at the bridge. A short trail leads you closer to the bottom of the falls for a better view.
Tsuxwin Viewpoint
Tsuxwin Viewpoint
Head south of Gold River, and there is a viewpoint pullover on the left-hand side as you pass the waterfall flowing next to the road on the right.
Night in Qualicum Beach
We had finished with the gravel roads and arrived at Qualicum Beach for our final night of the trip.
We stayed at the Ocean Crest Motel, a basic yet recently renovated place that met all our needs. It was within walking distance of the ocean and a fantastic German restaurant. For supper, we enjoyed some wiener schnitzel, took a last stroll to burn off the weissbier, and then called it a night.
Day 7 – Qualicum Beach to Sooke
Spending seven days one-on-one with my dad has been an amazing experience, but now it’s time to head home. From here, it’s all open highway driving, which is a relief since the winding logging roads had worn Marvin out by the end of day three. To break up our journey, we planned two stops before high tide to try and catch our supper.
Heritage Forest
Up early again, we received a recommendation to visit Heritage Forest, a pleasant two-kilometre walk featuring old-growth trees right in Qualicum Beach. It’s a leisurely 40-minute stroll with plenty of informative signs to read along the way and a great way to start the day.
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location and maps of Heritage Forest
Ammonite Falls
Ammonite Falls is situated 10 km from downtown Nanaimo and served as a perfect final destination for our trip. The in-and-out hike is a 6 km round trip with an elevation gain of 222 meters. We spent about 2 hours on the well-marked trail, which led us to a stunning waterfall.
Upon reaching the waterfall area, you’ll find steps leading down to two viewing platforms and eventually to the creek bed, offering numerous photo opportunities.
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Trail information and photos of Ammonite Falls
Catching Dinner in Sooke
We returned in time to pick up my daughter so she could join Grandpa for some crab fishing off the Rotary Pier along the Sooke Boardwalk. We caught three crabs that were big enough to keep and enjoy with our family dinner. What a way to end the day!
Travel with the ones we love, creating new memories
This journey across Vancouver Island was incredibly meaningful for both my dad and me. I couldn’t have asked for a better travel companion as we both share a passion for adventure and curiosity. We love exploring new places and then moving on to the next.
Over seven days, we made 23 stops and travelled 1,700 km, encountering all kinds of road conditions and discovering unique spots, from waterfalls to caves. We visited some of the strangest museums and spent countless hours in the car, always finding something to talk about.
This trip was truly special, and I hope our experiences inspire you to explore. Whether you live on Vancouver Island or are visiting for a week, there is so much to see and add to your bucket list.
