I drove out the week it reopened and learned a few things that will make your visit better.
China Beach just reopened, and right now is one of the best windows to go. I drove 35 minutes past Sooke on Highway 14 last Wednesday to see it for myself, and caught the lowest tide I have ever seen there, with the whole beach to myself. A few things stood out that are worth knowing before you make the drive.
First, the trail is in good shape again. It was cleared after all of the winter storms, and the only sign left is a few cut trees stacked along the edge. It is 800 metres down to the sand, and there is a platform partway that looks out over the beach before you reach it. If you were holding off because of storm damage, you do not need to anymore.
Second, and this is the big one, go at low tide. The day I went the water was pulled so far back the sand just kept going in every direction. That is when China Beach is at its best, and it is the difference between a nice walk and a beach that feels like it belongs to you. Check the tide chart before you leave. It is the one thing that turns a good visit into a great one.
If you are choosing between here and Mystic Beach, China Beach is the easier call for a lot of people. Same parking lot, but a much shorter walk down. If you have young kids, or you are short on time, or the full Mystic hike is more than you want to take on, this is the one. The beach at the bottom is every bit worth it.
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There is also a bonus most people walk right past. At the back of the little canyon, there is a waterfall. In winter, the creek runs full, and you have to duck under trees and shrubs to keep your feet dry.
When I went it was barely a trickle, so I walked straight up the creek bed to it. The falls drop into a small pool, and it is a quiet spot to stop. I sat on a log and ate my lunch there with no sound but the water.
The other big change is the parking lot. It is bigger now, so you have a much better shot at a spot once the summer crowds pick up, and there is finally room for small motorhomes.
It also has a new connector trail to the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, which means you can now reach Mystic Beach right from the China Beach lot.
I will tell you why I keep coming back. We have come here nearly every New Year’s Day for years, a tradition that started before we even lived on the island. That first time, we were visiting from Edmonton, which we’d left in the dead of winter, the kind of cold that comes with a blizzard and minus 20. Although still cool on Vancouver Island, the temperature difference felt refreshing.
Our daughter ran the shoreline, jumping in puddles while we stood and watched, taking in the salt air. That was the day we fell in love with Vancouver Island. If you are looking for a beach that works for a family and still feels wild, this is the one I would send you to.
The climb back is uphill the whole way with some stairs near the top, but it is short and it is not bad. Go at low tide, give yourself an hour or two, and you will see why it is back on my list the week it reopened.
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